Guess you could have the toilet always running…aka a drip system lolNot sure why this is such a difficult concept to grasp? Nothing beats flushing the toilet……
Guess you could have the toilet always running…aka a drip system lolNot sure why this is such a difficult concept to grasp? Nothing beats flushing the toilet……
Wait, am I reading this correctly? You haven’t had to clean your sponges in 5 years?I've never used canisters because I keep reading how they're a pain to clean and people get lulled into not cleaning them enough. Not saying don't use 'em, but still...plus I'm paranoid about floor level filtration during power outages (like the random one here an hour ago)
I used a different approach. Knowing I was going to have an oscar and other bioload strong fish I figured to increase efficiency to the max.
In the 225 I utilize this system which as worked well
2x 2 jumbo sponges with a powerhead on each stack (one in each corner). Each jumbo sponge is rated to 125 gallons (total of four). Haven't touched these in nearly 5 years.
3 Aquaclear 110s stuffed with Bio Bale and sponge. Bio Bale is a plastic ribbon with rough texture that has 33sqft of surface area per pound for bio filtration. It's just one long piece of plastic ribbon that rinses clean in tank water in two seconds. Nothing sticks to it.
(4 ) 4"jumbo airstones for oxygenation and water movement, equally spaced apart. The airstones are placed in front of the aquaclears and 'crossways' in the flow of the powerheads. I never saw any logs from Brick after using this method. But the mechanical sponges would be black every 2-3 days so they were cleaned twice a week. Sometimes three once Brick got really huge and bulky.
Wait, am I reading this correctly? You haven’t had to clean your sponges in 5 years?
Damn, that’s awesome!!! Thanks for sharing!Not the huge jumbo ones that stay submerged, nope. Don't even squeeze 'em out. But in the smaller tanks I do squeeze them clean because they work by air hose/pump, not powerheads. Makes a difference. And they get filthy asf because there's no directional flow like the 225. The huge sponges get dirty but stuff breaks down on them and never fouls the tank. Not the case in the smaller tanks, eventually the water stays perpetually cloudy from mulm buildup until I clean. Flow and oxygen affects the detrius.
Here's a diagram of the filtration in the 225. The HOBs are static flow, as are the airstones. The powerheads are the dynamic flow and key for affecting direction of debris. The trick is hitting the right angle to push everything toward the hobs to suck up the crud. Crossways will blast everything to the corners. Too far to the front and stuff goes to the back wall and under decor. Angled to the back works because I keep it open in the front for stuff to collect there. As it goes to the front the hobs grab most of it.
Its also a good way of having fish with personalities interact as they all have to go to the 'dinner table' area. I don't put food in the dead zones, that makes unecessary work and you always miss some crud.
Blood Parrot Boss in particular loves dangling along the back wall where all the flow 'crashes' together. He'll hang suspended under plant cover while his tail flaps around. My Oscar Brick often did this as well...sometimes he would even take 'bubble baths' over the airstones.
I actually did an experiment and did clean the jumbo sponges and each time got a mini crash and cloudiness...their massive surface area did a good job keeping bb balance with a huge Oscar in the tank. I had a theory, tested a concept. The rest was trial and error.
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Haha, I’ve already learned that the hard way. I burned out a canister but letting too much air get sucked into itI forgot to mention something about the setup I use. Don't place the airstones too close to the HOB intake stems. You have to stagger them. Otherwise, the filters will choke off some, get noisy and lose some vacuum pressure because air is being pushed back in against the outflow. You'll know when this happens by a sudden loud rattling vibration sound like the filter is running dry.
Just an FYI, I have used fractionation on my fresh water tanks, and ponds, and it works just fine, I consider it one of the best filtration forms, because it removes nitrate precursors directly from the water column, not just store them like cans do. . It's just a little harder to crack the air water interface in fresh water because it is less dense than salt. Below is a DIY fractionation I used on a 500 gal pond, and as you can see, with the proper pump, foam is produced without a problem.I’m assuming you’re referring to skimmers for exportation which to the best of my knowledge aren’t effective in freshwater since you can’t get the foam. I think most people here use canisters or sumps. I use canisters and I clean mine at least once a month. A drip system works too, but I classify that as a WC. I can’t imagine how big of a refugium you’d need for Oscars or if it would even work.
Because I (luckily) had access to a water quality lab, most of my theories about, fractionation, HITH and nitrate concentration, and pathogenic bacterial buildup are not simply anecdotal, but backed up with my own testing, actual unbiased trials, and experimental evidence.