4300 Gallon Plywood Build (3600+ Take 2)

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nolapete

Jack Dempsey
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Jun 1, 2007
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Most of the lowest section is screwed. I'm still fitting in the rest and decided to do that so I have no surprises when I continue putting the screws in. I was going to use construction adhesive throughout, but I'm only using on the long boards and the angle joins on the front. A friend suggested that I smooth over the inside surface of the boards with acrylic thinset; the kind used for small tiles no the portland cement type. Regardless, it's not going anywhere.
 

spiff

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I bet you had Lincoln Logs as a kid...
 

Ozkar

Candiru
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nolapete;3556855; said:
Most of the lowest section is screwed. I'm still fitting in the rest and decided to do that so I have no surprises when I continue putting the screws in. I was going to use construction adhesive throughout, but I'm only using on the long boards and the angle joins on the front. A friend suggested that I smooth over the inside surface of the boards with acrylic thinset; the kind used for small tiles no the portland cement type. Regardless, it's not going anywhere.

What is the thinset for? To smooth out imperfections?

If so, why not use Styrofoam insulation sheets in between the 2x6s and plywood? This will have the added benefit of thermal insulation, be cheaper, and easier to do. The Styrofoam will not crush because the weight is distributed across the entire sheet. I used Styrofoam sheets UNDER my 3000 gallon build to insulate it from the pave stones. I did the math, and there is around 1.5 lbs/sq. inch on the sheet - not enough to crust it.

Just a thought.

Keep up the good work. Nice build. :)
 

zennzzo

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Not to mention the hassle of trying to float a vertical layup, especially if you have no experience doing that.

The foam board insulation is by far a better idea.
Insulating properties as well as simplicity of installation...
 

nolapete

Jack Dempsey
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Jun 1, 2007
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Nah, just for a little extra bond and eliminating any gaps between the plywood sheathing and the 2x6 framing. I don't know that I'm going to do it, but it was something my friend mentioned to me.

With the Blue Max, I don't like how the seam tape shows through, so I am most likely going to do plywood, seam tape all of that and prime the seams with Blue Max then overlay the plywood with Hardie board like VLDesign's then go with the Blue Max over that for a clean, even Blue Max coating.
 

Ozkar

Candiru
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nolapete;3557325; said:
Nah, just for a little extra bond and eliminating any gaps between the plywood sheathing and the 2x6 framing. I don't know that I'm going to do it, but it was something my friend mentioned to me.

With the Blue Max, I don't like how the seam tape shows through, so I am most likely going to do plywood, seam tape all of that and prime the seams with Blue Max then overlay the plywood with Hardie board like VLDesign's then go with the Blue Max over that for a clean, even Blue Max coating.
Why tape and prime the seams on the plywood then cover it over with the Hardie board? You will still have to seal the seams of the Hardie board so the water does not get between the Hardie board and plywood. Not criticizing, just don't understand you thoughts here.

I used Pond Armor on my build. I thought that if I kept the seams real small I could just cover them over with the epoxy - wrong! I wound up having to use fiberglass strips to cover the seams, but the Pond Armor covered the fiberglass well; you can't tell its there.

Hope you can learn from MY mistakes! Good luck.

More pics :drool:
 
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