Here's a sketch to try to help you understand.spiff;3614011; said:I understand the sealing theory, but what is going to take the horizontal pressure? Is the acrylic going to sit on your new interior wall your building now, leaving the frame in the wall to stay just a hole? Or is it going to sit in the frame in the wall and you're going to buttress it some how?
There's a 2x4 frame 3/8" larger on all sides (50-3/4" x 99-3/4") that the acrylic butts up against. This will also have a 1x4 insert glued and screwed to it increasing the surface and compensating for the 3/8" allowed for sealant.
Hard rubber pieces 3/8" x 1" will support the acrylic off the bottom 2x6 to allow for sealant and will also be used to shim the sides and top.
Sealant (Dow 795) will be on the front of the acrylic, sides, and back. (The back will be applied after the plywood sheathing is in place then a 2x6 frame will be around the back of the acrylic. This gives support during water changes to prevent the acrylic from backing off the seal. (A common problem in large conventional builds) This creates a U shaped seal on the acrylic for added leak protection.
2x6s, 1 1x6, and 1/8"-1/4" material will make up columns on either side of the acrylic. These columns attach to the sides of the tank and are assembled in layers just like the sides, so the deck screws go through the board next to it. Construction adhesive makes the column as one solid piece of wood.
The header across the top, yet to be fitted braces the front and caps it off.
The attached angled bracing design will most likely be used. I've attached the second design as another option. With the first design you can see the idea I borrowed from train trestle reinforcing. All sides pull against each other while the water pushes out.